The Travels of Kara Keeton

Andrew’s - The Desert Sandcastle

Enjoy Andrew’s thoughts on our last city in India, Jaisalmer.  I hope to get my post up today if not look for it tomorrow.

The remainder of our last day in Jodhpur was
gastronomically oriented… starting with a heavy,
heavy meal at Jharokha.  It was a couple of creamy
favorites over stuffed paranthas, which would likely
have left us feeling full until sometime later the
following day.  However, thinking we could get a nice
and light supper at our guest house, we had indicated
a desire to eat there.  So, by eight in the evening,
with bellies still full of ghee-goodness, the lady of
the house proceeded to ladle incredibly healthy
portions of food onto our plates (all the while
protesting that she won’t push food on us).  I didn’t
think I’d manage to get up after that one… but, as
it turns out, my stomach leads to another dimension
and all was well.

Early the next day it was off to the train station
with a seven hour ride Jaisalmer ahead.  To our
complete and total surprise, the train was actually on
time.  Yes, it was 3-tier AC sleeper, with the AC
turned onto meat-locker setting, and the roaches were
out in force… but it was on time.  Time passed
slowly, the staring was limited, and the landscape
outside slowly transformed into the scrublands, and
occasional dunes, of the Thar desert.

Jaisalmer is a small town about 130 km away from the
Pakistani border, it is arid, and it is sleepy in
comparison to some of the other locations we have
visited.  The main draw is the fort which, from a
distance, looks like a large sandcastle.  It is
picturesque, but in a word?  Cute.  Not exactly a
ringing endorsement for a fortress, but seriously, in
comparison to the Amber and Nahargarh forts, it looks
a bit like a pretty toy.

Our hotel, the Shahi palace, is positioned on its
western flank, with a beautiful sunset view of the
ramparts.  It is a relaxed place with nice rooms at
very reasonable rates, and with a good restaurant to
chill out on the rooftop.  The whole vibe is relaxed,
and it was a perfect place as our final destination
within India.

Feeling like our Jaisalmer experience would not be
complete without a camel safari, we opted for the
short sunset option.  Having heard all kinds of
accounts on camels, and their amazing ability to break
the most stalwart of men, I had some misgivings.  Our
arrival at a small village about 50 km away from the
Pakistani border included visiting the camel-wallah’s
house, where he showed us a little book that his
previous clients had written in.  The first entry
confirmed my worst fears - when you see the words
“balls” and “red tomato”, and “thank god I only took
the one hour tour” - you quickly gain an appreciation
for what is to come.

The camel-wallah was a wiry old guy with a bright
orange turban, and an impressive moustache whose skin
reminded me of well worn leather, clearly it has seen
it’s share of the strong desert sun.  The camels
themselves are homely, but so much so as to be kind of
cute in their own way.  One was blowing his bubble and
frothing at the mouth, trying to impress the ladies…
avoid.  I end up getting “Mr. India”, a large male
who leads our little group of four.  He’s hungry, he
makes all sorts of impressive and interesting noises,
is interested in the sounds the camera makes, but is
pretty docile all told.  I don’t have too much to say
except that I can honestly, and with a lot of relief,
say that the crown jewels are safe and sound and that
the ride was actually… pleasant.  Surprising to say
the least.

We only ride the camels for an hour, finding a
‘non-touristed’ spot out on the dunes to catch the
sunset.  We watch as a couple of wild camels approach
the ones in our group, and just as suddenly run away.
Large dung beetles make curious tracks in the sand,
and one even mistakes my old day-pack as a large bit
of dung.  Which it is, if not in the strictest sense
of the word.  The sunset is scenic, and blissfully
quiet.  A great experience overall.

On our ride back we had a shocking revelation.  We are
a group of four, and the aussie gal with us asks
whether we are siblings.  Ahhh, I always wanted a
sister… I think.  And yet, if one is up on their
history, this creates all kinds of cheeky naughty
problems.  Good for a hearty laugh anyways!

The following day, our last entire day anywhere on
this trip, is an easy one.  We explore the fort,
which, owing to the fact that about a third of the
population of Jaisalmer lives there, doesn’t take a
lot of time.  That is correct, this sandcastle is
inhabited… unfortunately to its detriment.  The
water usage is causing massive structural damage, with
entire bastions having collapsed in the last few years
due to erosion.  There are also Jain temples that one
can visit… but when we come across the scene
outside, REM’s “Losing my religion” comes to mind,
except it’s more like “Selling my religion”.  I can’t
convince myself to join the crowds, and instead take
in the scene of hordes of tourists and beggars
outside.  A shoe-shine kid takes an interest in my
sandals, but obviously there is no work to be had
there… a holy man begs for baksheesh… there are
touts and stores… It’s quiet the scene outside.

Afterwards, we explore the narrow snaking alleyways of
the fort, laughing when touts come up with creative
lines to get people in their door: “Come, let me spend
your money”, or “I promise to rip you off only once”.
Very entertaining to say the least, but at least they
are having fun with it. 

Now we await our journey back to Delhi, a 20-hour
marathon ride with the roaches in 3-tier AC.  We are
at this very moment praying to Ganesh, and thinking
about sacrificing a goat, so that we might be able to
upgrade our seats to 2-tier…

To be continued in, “Incredible India"…

Posted on February 05, 2009 at 12:35 AM

---

Comments

Recent Posts

• Roadside Market Tour (July 28, 2010 at 3:37 PM)
• Summer Roadside Tour (July 27, 2010 at 3:45 PM)
• Andrew’s - Escaping Helhi (February 11, 2009 at 10:11 AM)

---

Recent Photos

• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 

Go to my photography page for more about my photography and additional photos.

---

Keeton Communications was founded on the basic principle of providing communication solutions to Kentucky’s agriculture and rural community. For more info visit Keeton Communications.